<div dir="ltr">Thanks for the offer Deid, but for the moment I am trying a different approach.<div><br></div><div>After experimenting, and realizing that the tab of just 3.0 mm on the card edge connector allowed for almost no thickness in the adapter, I came up with the following aluminum gadget to hold the wires in place while I solder them to the fingers..<div><img src="cid:ii_lcqzxeld3" alt="20230110_170554.jpg" width="130" height="174" style="margin-right: 0px;"><br><div><br><div>I push the module into the slot, which pushes the wires down around the fingers. I make a gap of 6mm in the wire's insulation where the wires are pushed into the slot around the module where I'll need to solder. Double-sided tape holds the wires in place when I lay them out, and the notches every 1.6mm help too. After soldering, I'll cut the wires so they dont connect the front side finger to the back side finger.</div></div></div><div><br></div><div>I need to buy more modules though, to try this latest method. Here are the ones I soldered without the jig, </div><div>The one on the left is an awful trial of patience and a waste of time.</div><div>The one on the right is easier to solder. It uses the adapter provided by Universal-Solder, but is thicker than I want it to be, and I put the pins the wrong way up.</div><div><img src="cid:ii_lcqzy75f4" alt="20230110_173508.jpg" width="436" height="327"><br></div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 2:40 PM Deid Reimer <<a href="mailto:deid@drsol.com">deid@drsol.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Hi George,<br>
<br>
I could probably print this if you send me the exact file you want printed.<br>
<br>
Deid<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2023-01-08 22:49, George Bowden wrote:<br>
> Hi PiMakers with 3D printers.<br>
> I need a small item 3d printed. It is an adapter for a wifi module.<br>
> Here a picture of the concept. My dimensions are a little different.<br>
> image.png<br>
> <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1hrF3ju8OWE" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1hrF3ju8OWE</a> <br>
> <<a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1hrF3ju8OWE" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1hrF3ju8OWE</a>><br>
> <br>
> It is a socket for holding one of these ESP8285 modules<br>
> image.png<br>
> <a href="https://twitter.com/esp8266/status/903774378042818560" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://twitter.com/esp8266/status/903774378042818560</a> <br>
> <<a href="https://twitter.com/esp8266/status/903774378042818560" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://twitter.com/esp8266/status/903774378042818560</a>><br>
> The pcb board thickness is 0.74mm, as measured with my callipers. The <br>
> module's can adds a couple of mm, but that doesn't come into the design.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> The contacts are aligned front to back.<br>
> <br>
> If I lay stripped 30 awg wires (0.2546 mm diameter) into the slots for <br>
> the wires, I can push the module into the board slot to make contact <br>
> with the wires. Then I cut the wires poking through the bottom, along <br>
> the board edge, to break the connection from the front pad to the back. <br>
> I may have to cut the wires and bend them into place beforehand if they <br>
> dont slide into place. The contacts are aligned front to back.<br>
> <br>
> The Board slot needs to be 1.2492 (0.74+2*0.2546) minus the <br>
> compression of plastic to keep the wires pressed against the contacts.<br>
> I don't know the compression characteristics of the plastic used in 3D <br>
> printing. the wires may sink .1mm into the plastic. If so a slot of <br>
> 1.1mm may be right. I could fill a thticker slot of 1.25mm with slips <br>
> of paper to get the right compression.<br>
> <br>
> Here is a rough sketch. The Blue is the part to 3D print<br>
> <br>
> image.png<br>
> <br>
> There are no sockets commercially available for this pitch and board <br>
> thickness. Currently, I am using an adapter soldered to the board. My <br>
> adapter would allow removal of modules, and specific adapters for <br>
> programming.<br>
> I would like the socket to be about the thickness of the Lithium Ion <br>
> flat battery (6mm), but the plastic may flex too much for that unless <br>
> steel pins are formed into the plastic .<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> -- <br>
> George Bowden 250-893-7423<br>
> Victoria BC<br>
> <br>
</blockquote></div><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">George Bowden 250-893-7423<div>Victoria BC</div></div></div>